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Orchard, Fruits & Nuts / Re: Moving raspberries
« Last post by Mukluk on August 17, 2017, 09:39:03 PM »
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I have a question about adding another variety to the bed though. Do you think it would be easier just to add another summer fruiting floricane variety? I was thinking of adding a primocane variety instead so I have fruit in autumn too, but I don't want to be confused about which canes to leave and which to cut back. Does anyone know if I'd be able to tell a first year floricane from a primocane at the end of the season by looking at it?

I can't tell the difference. Tie a rag around the base of the primo bearer so you'll know they can all be cut when fruiting has finished. Gived how quickly raspberries spread it won't be long before they are growing in amongst each other. Then you'll have buckleys!

OR you could get one variety with thorns and one thornless.  That way you will easily be able to tell them apart.
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2.Tomatoes / Re: Aussie tomato Season 2017-18
« Last post by Grub on August 17, 2017, 03:40:02 PM »
It didn't get an optimal spot last year. Didn't seem to follow a determinate growth habit either. But they were really good for cooking as they didn't tend to break apart like other cherry tomatoes. Heat resistant skins.
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Orchard, Fruits & Nuts / Re: Build planter box around palm stump then fig on top
« Last post by Raymondo on August 16, 2017, 07:48:35 PM »
I wouldn't worry too much about it. Palm 'wood' tends to be quite soft and fibrous so would decay fairly rapidly, especially if covered and kept moist. If you could be bothered, saw into it as deeply as you can to help expose the interior as well. Dump a handful of blood and bone on the stump before covering to provide some extra nitrogen for the microorganisms that will be trying to break it down.
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Orchard, Fruits & Nuts / Re: Moving raspberries
« Last post by Raymondo on August 16, 2017, 07:41:02 PM »
...
I have a question about adding another variety to the bed though. Do you think it would be easier just to add another summer fruiting floricane variety? I was thinking of adding a primocane variety instead so I have fruit in autumn too, but I don't want to be confused about which canes to leave and which to cut back. Does anyone know if I'd be able to tell a first year floricane from a primocane at the end of the season by looking at it?

I can't tell the difference. Tie a rag around the base of the primo bearer so you'll know they can all be cut when fruiting has finished. Gived how quickly raspberries spread it won't be long before they are growing in amongst each other. Then you'll have buckleys!
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Orchard, Fruits & Nuts / Re: Raspberries from cuttings?
« Last post by Raymondo on August 16, 2017, 07:36:25 PM »
When you dig them you should also be able to divide them. I've done that with newly bought raspberries and been able to create at least two plants from the one I purchased. The best I did was four from one. Raspberry cuttings do well but I've only ever taken cuttings in summer.
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2.Tomatoes / Re: Aussie tomato Season 2017-18
« Last post by Raymondo on August 16, 2017, 07:30:55 PM »
I'll probably have an excess of 15L pots this year as I'm using 25L pots for most things now, so I'll add a few Florida F1s into those later in the season. Since they are quick growing there is not much point in starting them early. Hard not to grow a black cherry as it's been my staple frozen tomato last 2 years but they are not conducive to a small growing space and tidiness as they just want to sprawl. Seeing if I can get good production out of borghese instead.
I've only grown Principe Borghese once in a bad year and it was very productive. I shudder to think what it might do in a good year. They all came at once though.
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There are a few already out there.  I've grown both Trinidad Perfume and Tobago Seasoning the last few years. 

The Trinidid perfume is a beauty - orange habenero style chili with a full fruity flavour and no heat whatsoever - has a lovely undertone smokey flavour.  About to take some cuttings from my overwintered plant as I have run out of seed. 

The tobago seasoning is a similar habenero style, slightly more heat and red, with a completely different flavour.  It hasn't done as well for me and not as firm a favourite in terms of flavour profile. 

I also grow several low heat versions of the normal cayenne pepper, which have a more standard chili/capsicum flavour - and in fact I tend to use where I want an intense capsicum taste.

I started looking for these when my son was little and refused to eat even the mildest chili, and in a family that eats plenty of spicy food we missed the flavour if we left them out altogether.  There are many out there, but a bit hard to find.  The company I bought all my seeds through ("the chili man" here in Aus) appears to no longer be stocking these varieties but has a few others, and there seem to be many available in US:

https://www.chilliseedbank.com.au/chilli-seeds/chilli-seeds-by-heat/mild-chilli-seeds
http://www.chilipeppermadness.com/chili-pepper-types/sweet-mild-chili-peppers

Thanks for sharing this info Fin. I've ordered myself some seeds of both these varieties. I grow (or attempt to grow) a similar pepper that my dad got seeds from a friend of his who brought them back from Saint Kitts. It grows much better at dad's place in QLD than I have been able to grow it down here.
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2.Tomatoes / Re: Aussie tomato Season 2017-18
« Last post by Abnerj on August 16, 2017, 10:15:52 AM »
Plant out after risk of frost has passed. The Melbourne Cup Rule is used because in some areas, including where I am in northern NSW, early November usually sees the end of the frosty season.

The first of my seeds have just germinated, atop the water heater seems to work well.

For Melbourne & similar Victorian climates, does the "plant after Melbourne Cup day" adage stand true, or can one potentially plant out into beds earlier?
Abnerj,
you can plant earlier, but it can be hit and miss. As Ray points out frost can be nasty. Another issue is that the ground isn't warm enough for the toms to really get away, and early planted ones don't actually give you much benefit for the extra work and stress. There are exceptions - raised beds, north facing, frost and draft protected areas can go earlier. Or a poly tunnel or cloche. Or a warmer than usual season - whatever that means this days.
T

Thanks, I had been wondering if I had something amiss seeing that I wasn't getting ripe fruit until into January - but if it's just the nature of the plant/particular varieties & our climate, I'll keep on as is.
It sure has been a year for frosts so far, not sure if some of our mature trees here will recover from the damage.
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2.Tomatoes / Re: Aussie tomato Season 2017-18
« Last post by Lemonbalm on August 15, 2017, 10:02:59 PM »
I am going for mostly cherries, as they suit our family better.

1. Snow White
2. Lime Green Salad
4. Black Cherry
5. Sungold F1 (my seeds are from before the import ban, so probably 8 years old, hope they germinate)
6.  A red cherry (haven't decided which one)
7. Grosse Lisse
8. Mortgage Lifter

I'd really love to make room for Juane Flammee as that is an awesome one and was so productive for me.
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Orchard, Fruits & Nuts / Re: Apples and Pears in containers
« Last post by SeanD on August 15, 2017, 05:30:33 PM »
I was doing a bit of pruning a while back and decided to dip a few nice looking pieces in rooting hormone and put them in pots.

No idea how they'll go but buds are bursting!

Tried it with Peach, Plum, Apples and Pears so there might be a few trees offered to family when they come around for Christmas lunch. Plum and apple are looking the most promising but the others don't dead yet - although it's hard to tell with anything dormant

I've got stacks of little green strawberries in the aquaponics bed but none on the same strawberries growing in soil which is something I've been puzzling over. Putting it down to soil temperature vs water temperature in the AP unless someone else has a better idea

Blueberries are absolutely covered in flowers, and they're flowering a bit earlier than last year if I'm not mistaken (but I don't keep a diary)

If I haven't fixed the leaf curl on the nectarine this year I might rip it out - I think I've given it about a dozen absolute soakings with copper spray since it dropped its leaves...

I was given a Tangelo tree and bought a mulberry tree the other day, time to find a wine barrel to chop in half and plant them in :-)
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